I spent a LOT of time watching YouTube videos and reading forum posts about the various Cura profiles and settings I should try using in order to get a successful print. This was my first 3D printer, and I had quite a few initial struggles and frustrations with it before I finally got it to work properly. If this is unclear I can make a video on it. The nozzle is 0.4mm, and a #79, 1/64, or 0.4 mm drill bit will work.Īs long as you don't remove the nozzle or the bottom heatsink screw that holds the hotend then you won't have to re-level the bed. You can try unclogging it by shoving a small piece of wire or a drill bit up through the nozzle. If won't extrude, then your nozzle is probably clogged. Try using an allen wrench or other round tool to push it down and through the hot end. With the hot end hot, grab the end of the filament and pull it out. Use the front panel controls to heat the hotend to 5-10 degrees hotter than what you normally print at. If your printer has a plastic bushing between the feed tube and the metal hot end, slide it out. Cut the filament and let the feed tube flop out of the way. Press the filament release lever and slide the feed tube a few inches away from the heatsink. Unscrew it a turn or two to release the feed tube fitting. The feed tube is held to the top of the heatsink by an allen screw.
Next, with the printer off and cool, remove the two spring clips that hold on the fan and let the fan flop out of the way. But keep at it because (1) you get a lot faster at it once you've done it a few times and (2) an un-leveled bed causes so many problems (hot-end clogging, bed adhesion problems, warping, etc.) - it's well worth the time spent.īEST ANSWER: First, curse at it. I know when you're just getting started the process of leveling can seem pretty tedious. If the level was a long way off when you started, you will probably need to do another pass. Once that corner is done use the movement menus to shift the print-head over to another corner.
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It should neither be totally free to move nor totally tacked down by the nozzle. Unscrew until the paper has the slightest bit of resistance. If you can't get access to it, then use the movement menus to move the print head over a bit. Now insert a small bit of paper (just plain printer paper is fine) between the nozzle and the build-plate. Make sure that the nozzle doesn't touch the plate here. It'll put it at the 0, 0, 0 location - the front corner. When you change the tape to a thicker/thinner one or have to dismantle the hot-end to fix a clog - you're going to have to re-level. Even if it was - things don't stay level for long. But I wouldn't worry much if yours isn't. Actually you can print with the bed cold for the most part, but a little heat doesn't hurt.īEST ANSWER: I guess I was lucky, my build plate started off level right out of the box. Heat up the nozzle and wipe it off if you have to.įor PLA, for beginners I would print on blue painter's tape, set the bed temperature at 55, and start with the hotend at 190. Make sure there's not a cooled off plastic booger hanging off the nozzle when you adjust it or you'll be way too high. Ideally, calibrate the bed by homing the printer, then remove power and adjust the bed screws until you can just slide a piece of paper under the head in all parts of the bed (move the head left and right and the bed front to back) - the paper should drag a little on the head. If it's just a round tube lying on the print bed then you need to raise the bed a little by adjusting the screws in the corners. When the first layer is being printed, ideally the extruded plastic will be somewhat flattened. I don't much like the tape the MP Select comes with. Regardless of type, first put down some blue painter's tape. BEST ANSWER: You don't say what kind of filament, temperature of hotend or bed.
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